A Snowy Sojourn in the Stans

Kazakhstan. Kyrgyzstan. Tajikistan. Turkmenistan. Uzbekistan.

Known collectively as “the Stans,” these five countries are former Russian territories and were once part of the historic Asian Silk Road trade route. Their common suffix of “-stan” means “land” and refers to the homeland of their respective inhabitants: the Kazakhs, Kyrgyzs, Tajiks, Turkmens, and Uzbeks.

On our fourth circumnavigation of the globe, we visited four of these countries, spending several wintery weeks in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan.

Sadly, all many Americans know of Kazakhstan comes by way of Borat, Sacha Baron Cohen’s two mockumentary films featuring a fictional Kazakh reporter. The largest of the Stans, the Republic of Kazakhstan is actually a richly diverse culture that has both European and Asian influences as well as land located on both continents. Geographically, it’s the ninth-largest country on the planet and the world’s largest landlocked country, although it features plenty of water including the Ural River and the Caspian Sea, which is actually the world’s largest lake.

A view of a modern architectural structure featuring a striking facade with geometric patterns, surrounded by stone steps and greenery, under a gray sky.
The Khabar Television Center in Almaty, Kazakhstan.

In Kyrgyzstan, the word Kyrgyz is derived from the Turkic word for “we are forty,” believed to refer to the forty clans of Manas, a legendary hero who united them all in the 7th century. It’s such an important part of Kyrgyz history that one version of an epic poem telling the tale has more than 500,000 lines.

A snowy night scene featuring bare trees and a statue in the distance, illuminated by streetlights in a park.
A snowy statue scene in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan.

Tajikistan has been inhabited since at least the fourth millennium BCE. Despite being Central Asia’s smallest nation, it has the highest mountain peaks in the region as well as beautiful lakes. It’s a predominantly Muslim country, and many visitors attend buzkashi matches, where competitors on horseback play a version of polo that involves a dead goat.

A large, white government building with a dome and prominent columns, surrounded by greenery and under a clear blue sky, with snow-capped mountains in the background.
Tajikistan’s presidential palace in Dushanbe with the Fann Mountains in the background.

The Republic of Uzbekistan is famous for its role in Silk Road history, with ancient cities like Samarkand, Tashkent, Bukhara, and Khiva playing prominent roles in international trade between 100 BCE and the mid-1400s CE. But that isn’t the country’s only claim to fame. Uzbekistan is one of only two doubly landlocked countries on Earth — meaning it is surrounded by countries that are themselves also landlocked — which means that buyers and sellers had to come to the Uzbeks by land rather than by sea. (Liechtenstein is the other.)

A panoramic view of a bustling market hall filled with vendors and colorful decorations, showcasing various goods and a crowd of shoppers under a distinctive patterned roof.
The traditional Chorsu Bazaar in the old town of Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

As former members of the Soviet Union, major cities in these four countries feature lots of Brutalist architecture with its exposed concrete and stark geographic forms. That may be lovely in the spring and summer, when the buildings are softened by the surrounding contrast of lush landscaping, but cloaked in nothing but gray skies and melting winter snow, it can prove somewhat depressing.

To make things a bit more interesting, we built our walking routes around quirky destinations like the world’s second-tallest flagpole in Dushanbe and the amusement park at the top of Almaty’s Kök-Töbe Hill with its bronze Beatles statue and knock-off Madagascar mini-zoo.

But it was still cold and gray, and we’re looking forward to returning to the Stans in sunnier weather.

A Tajikistan flag flying amidst bare trees against a clear blue sky, with birds perched on the branches.
Tajikistan: The world’s second-tallest flagpole.
Colorful sign for a Madagascar-themed amusement park featuring cartoon animal sculptures covered in snow.
Kazakhstan: At the Kök-Töbe amusement park.
A man stands between five bronze statues of musicians seated on a bench, with one holding a guitar. The setting features bare trees and a snowy ground.
Kazakhstan: At the Kök-Töbe amusement park.
A close-up view of a creamy dish garnished with green herbs and black caviar, served in a dark bowl.
Tajikistan: Caviar-topped mushroom soup at 28 Monkeys Restaurant in Dushanbe.
A close-up of a travel magazine featuring a woman in traditional Uzbek attire, displayed on a table with other colorful travel brochures.
A vibrant display of various dried fruits and nuts arranged in colorful heaps at a market in Central Asia.
Uzbekistan: Dried fruit and nuts for sale at Chorsu Bazaar in the old town of Tashkent.
Two men interacting at a spice market, surrounded by various containers of herbs and spices displayed on a table.
Uzbekistan: Haggling over spice prices at Chorsu Bazaar in the old town of Tashkent.
A colorful assortment of fresh salads and vegetables displayed in bowls at a market, featuring vibrant hues of orange, green, and purple.
Uzbekistan: Pickled vegetable salads for sale at Chorsu Bazaar in the old town of Tashkent.
A market scene featuring an elderly man with a long white beard and traditional attire pushing a cart. The setting includes various stalls filled with fresh fruits like apples, oranges, and pineapples under a colorful sign.
Uzbekistan: A shopper perusing the produce outside Chorsu Bazaar in the old town of Tashkent.
Colorful handcrafted pottery and decorative items displayed on shelves in a vibrant market in Central Asia.
Uzbekistan: Hand-painted pottery for sale near Chorsu Bazaar in the old town of Tashkent.
A vendor displaying a variety of traditional flatbreads at a market, with a woman in a headscarf behind the counter.
Uzbekistan: Traditional obi non breads for sale at Chorsu Bazaar in the old town of Tashkent.
Uzbekistan: Fresh meat-stuffed samsas hot from the clay oven in Tashkent.
A grand architectural structure featuring large columns and a domed roof, set against a clear blue sky.
Tajikistan: Navruz Palace in Dushanbe.
Colorful mosaic artwork featuring intricate floral and bird designs.
A large red teddy bear leaning against a colorful wall with toy advertisements in a bustling outdoor market, with people walking by and vehicles parked nearby.

Response

  1. DDS Avatar

    Informative and very well presented

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